Method for obtaining an active principle with immediate skin-tightening effect and resulting active principle

ABSTRACT

The invention concerns an active principle with instant skin-tightening effect useable in cosmetics, the method for obtaining same and compositions comprising said active principle. The source material consists of a white almond press cake.

[0001] The present invention has for its object an active principle withimmediate skin tightening effect, made from proteins of polymerizedcereals of a white almond press cake. The invention also covers theprocess for obtaining it and the cosmetic compositions.

[0002] In cosmetology, numerous attempts have been made to act on theskin so as to obtain a tightening effect. Thus wrinkles and weaknessesof the skin are treated in certain more delicate places so as to countersagging.

[0003] There exist treatments which have long-term effect which act atdepths. Such treatments permit compensating the effects of age at thecellular level.

[0004] On the other hand, the customers require products permittinghaving an immediate lifting and smoothing effect. In this case, it isinstant results that are sought.

[0005] It is known that acting on the skin and producing tension in theskin, at least superficially, leads to results that are clearly visiblebecause the surface condition of the skin is improved.

[0006] Thus the color itself is affected because the light is reflecteddifferently relative to a skin that is baggy.

[0007] So as to act against loss of regularity of the surface of theskin, the present invention provides an active principle which ensuresan immediate tightening effect.

[0008] To obtain the envisaged result, there is sought an activeprinciple rich in proteins of high molecular weight, still soluble inwater, which is a very useful parameter in the field of cosmetology.

[0009] To this end, according to the invention, the process of obtainingan active principle with immediate tightening effect of the skin ischaracterized in that it comprises the following steps:

[0010] dissolution in aqueous phase of a serial press cake, for examplePrunus Amygdalus Dulcis, in the amount of 50 to 500 g/l and moreparticularly 100 to 300 g/l,

[0011] moderate enzymatic hydrolysis of the solution at an acid pH andat a temperature comprised between 40 and 80° C.,

[0012] separation of the soluble and insoluble phases and inactivationof the medium to interrupt the enzymatic reaction,

[0013] polymerization of the proteins by addition of a polymerizationinitiator,

[0014] separation of the polymerized proteins by filtration,decantation, centrifugation and concentration.

[0015] The invention also covers the active principle obtained by thepractice of this process, as well as the cosmetic compositions adaptedto produce an immediate tightening effect, presented in any suitablegalenic form.

[0016] The present invention will now be described according to aparticular embodiment, by way of the process of obtaining it and theexperimental results obtained.

[0017] The accompanying sheet of drawings relates to the resultsobtained with the active principle according to the present inventionand permits characterizing the effects. There is also present a curve ofresults.

[0018] The process consists in solubilizing in aqueous phase a whitealmond press cake in the amount of 50 to 500 g/l and more particularlyin the amount of 100 to 300 g/l.

[0019] This solution is subjected to acid hydrolysis, at a temperaturecomprised between 40 and 80° C., in the presence of an enzyme, with amoderate enzymatic action.

[0020] Then follows the separation of the soluble and insoluble phasesand inactivation of the medium to interrupt the enzymatic action.

[0021] An essential step of the process according to the presentinvention is polymerization of the retained proteins. This step iscarried out by addition of a polymerization initiator, in this instanceat least 1% of a multifunctional compound such as a polyacid chloride, apolyacid anhydride, a polyisocianate, a polythioisocyanate.

[0022] Separation by filtration, centrifugation or decantation permitsretaining only the heavy fraction of the proteins thus polymerized,namely the fraction having a molecular weight greater than 600 Kdaltons.

[0023] The active principle according to the present invention ischaracterized by the following data:

[0024] 1. The weight of dry material is greater than 50 g/l, comprisedbetween 50 and 500 g/l, more particularly between 50 and 250 g/l.

[0025] This weight is obtained by passage through an oven at 150° C.until a constant weight is obtained.

[0026] 2. The pH is comprised between 2.0 and 10.0, particularly between4.0 and 10.0, more particularly between 7 and 9.

[0027] This value is obtained by the potentiometric method, at ambienttemperature.

[0028] 3. The weight of proteins relative to the dry material is greaterthan 70%.

[0029] 4. Chromatographic profile:

[0030] The molecular weight of the different molecular species isestimated by molecular filtration, by F.P.L.C. (Fast Protein LiquidChromatography).

[0031] The filtration column, of the type sold under the mark “superdex75” is calibrated with known molecular weight markers such as:

[0032] cytochrome C: 12,500 daltons,

[0033] bovine albumin: 66,000 daltons,

[0034] dehydrogenase alcohol: 150,000 daltons.

[0035] The detection of the eluted compounds is carried out in theultraviolet at 280 nm.

[0036] The results are obtained that are indicated in Table 1, FIG. 1,which set forth the characteristics of the obtained active principle.

[0037] 5. Determination of molecular weight

[0038] This determination is carried out by SDS-Page electrophoresiswith a 10% polyacrylamide/bisacrylamide gel having a ratio of 36/1.

[0039] There are detected two fractions A and B:

[0040] Fraction A: Presence of proteins in dimer form with molecularweights from 30 to 50 Kdaltons.

[0041] Fraction B: Presence of proteins of very high molecular weightsgreater than 600 Kdaltons.

[0042] The proportion of the two fractions is substantially 50/50.

[0043] 6. Other parameters:

[0044] The obtained active principle is stable at pHs greater than 5,temperature below 50° C. in the presence of ethanol.

[0045] So as further to characterize the tightening effect obtained fromthis active principle for example in an emulsion, carried out onvolunteers, there is used as a control means an apparatus commerciallyknown under the name “Cutometer” (Courage and Khazaka).

[0046] Such a control means comprises a probe with an opening. Thisprobe is applied to the skin and a constant vacuum is maintained in thisprobe.

[0047] There is measured the depth of penetration of the skin into thisprobe through the opening, under the effect of vacuum.

[0048] The skin, subjected to vacuum, tires more or less quickly and theresponse time as amplitudes permits determining particularly aninstantaneous deformation Ue called the elastic component, and anextensibility Uf.

[0049] There it thus carried out on volunteers a first series ofapplications of the emulsion containing the active principle accordingto the invention, against a placebo on another predetermined region, forexample the face, the arm or the thighs.

[0050] A new series of measurements, identical to the first, at the samepositions and with the same adjustment of the measuring apparatus, isconducted after a period of 2 hours so as to determine the effect.

[0051] The table of FIG. 2 recapitulates the results with increasingpercentages of the active principle.

[0052] When the instantaneous deformation Ue decreases, the skin is lessflexible and hence more tight and if Uf decreases the skin is lessextensible and hence also more tight.

[0053] It will be seen that 2 hours after isolated application, there isobtained a dose dependent tightening effect which is very interestingand statistically significant and that this effect is also apparent inthe different regions studied.

[0054] The active principle can be associated with any galenic form:cream, gel, onguent, lotion, milk, emulsion or solution, and withsuitable extenders known to those in the art to permit better usage.

[0055] There can be cited the following examples of compositions with anactive principle having a dry material weight of 121 g/l, a proteinquantity of 118 g/l and a pH of 7.8:

[0056] 1. Composition of gel with tightening effect:

[0057] Montanov 202: 3%

[0058] Lanol 99: 2%

[0059] Lanol 1688: 10%

[0060] Active principle according to the present invention: 3%

[0061] Sepigel 305: 2%

[0062] Preservative: 0.5%

[0063] Water qsp: 100

[0064] 2. Body milk for care of the body for thinning and smoothing:

[0065] Lanol 2681: 2%

[0066] Lanol 99: 3%

[0067] Dc 345: 5%

[0068] Glycerol: 2%

[0069] Sepigel: 501: 3%

[0070] Ethanol: 8%

[0071] Preservative: 0.5%

[0072] Active thinner: 3%

[0073] Active principle according to the invention: 3%

[0074] Water qsp: 100

1. Process for obtaining an active principle with immediate skintightening effect, characterized in that it comprises the followingsteps: dissolving in aqueous phase a cereal press cake in the amount of50 to 500 g/l, moderated enzymatic hydrolysis at an acid pH and atemperature comprised between 40 and 80° C., in the presence of anenzyme, separation of the soluble and insoluble phases and inactivationof the medium to interrupt the enzymatic reaction, polymerization of theretained proteins by addition of a polymerization initiator, separationof the polymerized proteins.
 2. Process for obtaining an activeprinciple with immediate skin tightening effect according to claim 1,characterized in that the solubilization is carried out in the amount of100 to 300 g/l of cereal press cake.
 3. Process for obtaining an activeprinciple with immediate skin tightening effect according to claim 1 or2, characterized in that the cereal press cake is a press cake of PrunusAmygdalus Dulcis.
 4. Process for obtaining an active principle withimmediate skin tightening effect according to any one of the precedingclaims, characterized in that the polymerization initiator comprises atleast 1% of a multifunctional compound such as polyacid chloride,polyacid anhydride, polyisocianate, polythioisocyanate.
 5. Process forobtaining an active principle with immediate skin tightening effectaccording to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that thefraction of polymerized proteins has a molecular weight greater than 600Kdaltons.
 6. Active principle obtained by the practice of the processdefined according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that ithas the following parameters: quantity of dry material greater than 50g/l, preferably comprised between 50 and 500 g/l and more particularlylimited to the range 50/250 g/l, pH comprised between 2.0 and 10.0,particularly 4.0 and 10.0, more specifically 7.0 and 9.0, quantity ofproteins relative to the dry material greater than 70%, molecular weightratio 50/50 of proteins of dimer form of molecular weight comprisedbetween 30 and 51 Kdaltons proteins of very high molecular weightgreater than 600 Kdaltons.